Sailing Close Hauled

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14 years 10 months ago #983 by Augydoggy
Sailing Close Hauled was created by Augydoggy
We've had our 420 for a year of good sailing now and I'm just starting to understand the Cutter rig. I really like the staysail, especially on the Hoyt boom, because it makes sailing in high winds a breeze, so to speak.

I've been frustrated with not being able to point up very well though. Yesterday I was tacking out of the Choptank River and it dawned on me to try running just the Main and the Genoa, no Staysail. I was pleased to find I could point up an extra 5 degrees on either tack. I think the staysail must be screwing up the air for the genoa when everything is pulled in close. I also ran the cars on the genoa tracks forward and got much better shape in the sail.

I've been sailing on the Chesapeake since I was a kid but never took a class. Guess you could say I sail by intuition/the seat of my pants. I can see where a class would be a benefit but in the meantime the learning curve is extremely broad. I am having a blast figuring it out as I go though.

-Tom

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14 years 10 months ago #986 by ejacks2
Replied by ejacks2 on topic Re: Sailing Close Hauled
My IP38 sails pretty well close hauled providing I do the following:

1. I move the genoa cars back to flatten the sail.
2. I move the traveller to windward so I can get a good twist on the main and prevent it from luffing.
3. If using the staysail and I rate it as the least important sail, I make sure to have good outhaul and well-sheeted so their is no luffing.

Sea conditions effect progress to wind a great deal but she will sail with apparent wind of 34 to 38 degrees.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Ed

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14 years 10 months ago - 14 years 10 months ago #989 by Augydoggy
Replied by Augydoggy on topic Re: Sailing Close Hauled
Ed,

I appreciate your comments. When I had the Genoa cars back more I found that the sail would luff at the top when close hauled. When I moved the cars forward the leach would flatten out and give me better shape. You can see in this picture of our boat that with the car towards the back of the track the Genoa is twisted out of shape. We did have the sheet out more on this day which exaggerates it but the effect is the same. Sheeting it in tighter didn't improve things but moving the car forward did. I'll have to keep playing with it to get a better understanding of what I'm doing.




Tom
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Last edit: 14 years 10 months ago by hayden.

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14 years 10 months ago - 9 years 8 months ago #991 by hayden
Replied by hayden on topic Re: Sailing Close Hauled
Tom:
Sailing close hauled is one of my favorite points of sail, because I come from 8 yrs of dinghy racing, then 10 yrs of J-35 racing, so I love to sail upwind. I will say, getting a Packet to sail upwind is NO EASY TASK! Here are the keys I have learned.
1. No cutter, it is pointless upwind unless used to steady the boat in high winds say 20-30 off the bow motoring. It will not help you sail upwind.
2. Jib car position is KEY. Basically, forward for reaching and aft for beating, then adjust as needed to power the head of the jib. If the top is liffing, then move the car forward a little.
3. Main sheet tension...TIGHT as TIGHT can be and not above centerline. No need for vang upwind as the sheet will do all the work.
4. Jib sheeted close to spreader tip, this is the limiting factor on how tight you can sheet the jib. For me, with 135% I sheet it to 1-6 inches off the spreader tip, upwind and with my jib car all the way aft.
5. Tell Tales on the aft edge of the main, 3-4 of them up the leech. This will show you if the main still has attached air flow on the BACK SIDE of the main as the air flows off the sail. If these tells are not streaming aft, then the main is over sheeted, or traveled up too high. The main sheet tension is key to sailing upwind and these tells show you if the main is flowing with the air that is being driven into the slot by the jib.
6. If you see the jib top aft, leech luffing, when sheeted in fully then your car is in the wrong position or you are too high. Keep working this car position until the jib leech breaks evenly top to bottom, this is key.

Now, set sail on the autopilot to wind vane mode and let the boat stay in the groove. We can set this to 40 degrees in normal winds, 10-20 knots true, and up to 37 degrees with winds 25-27 knots true close hauled. The boat will be tracking about 50 degrees off the wind due to the full shallow keel.

Reef the main first, keep the jib full as long as you can. We can sail close hauled up to 27 knots true wind speed with a reefed main. Once we see 30 knots close hauled true winds, we need to reef the jib down to 110%. Still close hauled we can sail this up to 35 knots true wind. Over 35 knots we reach off to 120 degrees wind angle and furl the jib downwind when the boat is doing 8 knots. Then we turn back upwind on the reefed main, roll out the staysail and with a staysail, and reefed main, we can keep sailing 35 knots upwind. It is not comfortable, and if at night, we will drop the main and motor the staysail into the wind with the wind vane set to 20-25 degrees. This is exactly what we just did offshore from Atlantic City, NJ to Block Island in 35 knot winds from 2100hrs to 0300hrs all night long!

So, sailing upwind is great, I am always amazed at how well an IP will sail upwind when set up right.

Here is one of my most proud IP moments, when IP35 Island Spirit beat a Sabre 42....and we had OLD sails....Check out this photo essay proof!

www.ipyoa.com/photos?view=album&aid=1297

Hayden, in Boothbay Harbor, Maine

Hayden Cochran
IP35-165 Island Spirit
IslandSpirit35.blogspot.com
Rock Hall, MD
Last edit: 9 years 8 months ago by hayden.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Emergpa1, huhns

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12 years 4 months ago #2538 by gmccombs
Replied by gmccombs on topic Re: Sailing Close Hauled
What prop do you have?

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