Waste System in IP 27

Last year our 1990 IP 27 Daisy started to develop a head type odor. Upon opening her up a week ago the odor was very strong.
We could find no leaks so did the hot, wet rag and sniff test (ugh)on all the hoses. We found two to be offensive: the vent and pumpout hoses. The head to Y-valve hose was fine as it is only two years old. Also, the Y-valve to tank and Y-valve to seacock had minimal odor.
We intend to replace the vent and pumpout hoses ASAP. I suspect they are original hoses.
When we are out past the legal discharge limits our system allows us to pump the head waste via the Y-valve/seacock overboard although we seldom do so. Our system allows us to empty the tank only via a pumpout.
However, many boats in our area have macerator pumps and never seem to have pumpouts. The ability to legally discharge the waste tank directly into the sea would be extremely convenient for us.
Any ideas about an easy way to do this on our IP? We think it would probably require all new hoses and their redirection.
And finally, the waste tank is so small and we do spend a lot of time on Daisy that we get quite a few pumpouts. And trying to figure the amount of waste in the tank and when to get a pumpout is difficult. And not always convenient.
Any advice on measuring systems or the like would also be much appreciated.
Gerry

I have a 26 Mark II which is similar to your 27. I replaced the entire waste system, but did not want to add the cost and complexity of a macerator pump and y-valves for the type of weekend cruising I typically do. So, I devised a gravity discharge system by mounting a rectangular tank in the locker behind the head, in the area left of the door. To minimize head hose and connection odor, I used Schedule 40 PVC for much of the run, using only a few feet of high quality hose to make the connections to the pump out, head, and overboard discharge. The head discharges directly to the tank. The tank can be pumped out as usual, or by turning one valve, can gravity discharge when offshore. It's pretty simple and eliminates over 20 feet of flexible hose. The short lengths of flex hose prevent damage to the rigid pipe and make the system accessible. I like Hayden's suggestion about counting pumps - never thought of that and will have to experiment with the capacity based on pumps.

Chris McDonnell
Even Keel
IP26-53

Chris,
Sounds like a great solution. Just awhile ago during my search to resolve my problem I was told by a marina owner that when they replace waste systems they use schedule 40 PVC and short lengths of hose just as you did. They would use all kinds of Y-valves and a macerator and the original waste tank with long pipe lengths. They also install tank level measuring devices that are attached to the outside with no holes required at a unit cost of $400. But I did read that schedule 40, which is terrific in one aspect because there is zero permeation, is not used on boats because of the flex of the boat. However, with such short lengths and use of hose connectors I don't see it as a problem.
I also see many advantages to your method. As you stated just a few short runs reduces the work but also the costs. Use of schedule 40 PVC at $.50/ft vs. waste hose at $21./ft is substantial. And no cost for a macerator.
But I do have a few questions.
What material did you use for the tank? If fiberglass or such I would think tank level could easily be seen by simply opening the locker door and looking at the tank? A great way to solve another problem vs. counting pump strokes. And I also read that metal tanks as installed in IP's could be subject to corrosion from the liquid waste.
What are the tank dimensions and gallon capacity?
And, perhaps basic, but also any problem joining hoses and connectors? Did you use some kind of hose spreader, lubrication or heat? I just removed one of the stinky 1 1/2 in. hoses with great difficulty even using heat and have heard that installation can also be difficult.
Did you cap and leave the original tank in place?
And, finally, would the manual pump of the head be strong enough to lift the waste to the top of the tank in the locker? Is a check valve or the like needed?
Thanks very much for your help and I think you came up with an ingenious waste system for your IP.
And Hayden, thanks, because I still haven't decided which way to go and your input is very helpful.
Gerry
Daisy IP27

Gerry, there are a few things I would do differently if I had a do-over, but overall I'm happy with my choices given the way I use the boat. To answer your questions, I used Shields Poly X sanitation hose - I bought a 12 foot length and used about 6 feet to make all connections, and like Hayden, used the Sealand PVC to hose connectors. They are inexpensive, easy to use and reliable. I cut the sanitary hose to the size needed, then left it on the deck in the hot Florida sun for an hour. Connections wiggled on without lubrication. I removed the original IP tank (11 gal?) from under the V-berth (not sure where yours is) and threw it out. It stunk really bad -- it was the original plastic tank. That space I now use for storage. I removed 20+ feet of smelly sanitation hose in the process. I read somewhere that the manual pump on my Raritan head could push waste at least 3 feet high, so I tried to keep the upper tank fitting below that height, and pumping to the tank has not been an issue -- and it's only a few feet. I did not use a check valve, but at the end of every day, I pump clean water to clear the line to the tank. You don't want waste sitting in the flex sanitary hose. For the tank, I purchased a Moeller linear polyethylene waste tank (Jamestown Distributors has them) on Amazon -- I think it was the 6-gallon size but I'm not near the boat to verify -- on the theory that in my case, less is more. I didn't want gallons of waste sitting in the tank for long periods, so the smaller size forces me to dump more frequently. A larger tank with more height and volume would certainly fit, but it likely will need to be a custom made unit that tapers to the bottom. On the drain side I installed a PVC line to a PVC tee -- one side leading to the deck pumpout, the other to the through-hull discharge. In the latter, I installed an inline valve to shut off the the drain line. That was both to direct waste to the deck pumpout when vacuum is applied, and to prevent waste from sitting in the lower flex hose just before the through-hull. To drain the line, I shut off the upper valve first before closing the through-hull. And yes, you can see the level of waste in the tank through the opaque poly tank. I can still use the locker for some clothes, but space is very limited. One other idea you might consider. I converted to mostly fresh water flush by tee'ing off the water tank with a line to the seawater intake line using inline pvc valves and a check valve to prevent backflow to the water tank. Fresh water also helps keeps smell at a minimum. The seawater line is still there and I can switch back to seawater flush if needed by throwing two inline valves. I have some pictures if I can figure how to upload.

Chris McDonnell
Even Keel
IP26-053

Pictures, I think. Chris