Ice Box Drawings for IP29

Does anyone have a drawing showing the construction of the Galley/Ice ox for the IP29. I am planning/considering a rebuild to improve insulation prior to adding refrigeration.

I don't have drawings - but have improved two IP boxes... An IP350 and an IP 40. So I do have some very opinionated ideas. I agree that vac panels and $1200 vac panel doors are a waste of money. Likewise, water cooled AB Cold Machines are a waste of money because you are unlikely to recover the 20% additional power they use to run the pump. But like everything with boats, you have to decide what you are doing with the boat. Our decisions aren't right for everyone, we live aboard, mostly at anchor, for 7+ months a year. So....Here is our experience.

1. On the 350 I bonded 2" of pink foam on the inside of the existing box and then covered it with fiberglass panels from Lowes. Really a great material, it is used for sink backs, relatively inexpensive, less than $8 a sheet. You will need less than two sheets. You will have to use two part epoxy to bond the panels in because any polysulfide adhesive is hydroscopic - needs water to cure - and behind the foam and fiberglass panels it is air tight so it won't cure --- ever. I caulked the corners where the panels were joined with 5200. For the lid - I used the original lid and took it apart and fixed the numerous voids by filling it with pink foam and spray in insulation. I also used double gaskets, using door insulation from Lowes. I bonded shelf hangers inside the panels so I could screw hangers in for the shelves. Net result was that it got the daily Amp hrs. down to about 40 in very hot wx from 70. This is with the large air cooled cold machine. The beauty of the panels is that you can clean them.

2. On the IP 40 I removed the insulation and liner down to the hull. This is the better option if you can stand to do the work. I had about ten garbage bags of liner and water soaked insulation after tear out. The insulation had voids and it absorbed water. The boat didn't leak the water was from condensation at the voids. I cut out the whole top of the box to the edge of the storage units with a Fein Saw. I then reinsulated from the hull out with 6" of foam on the bottom and 4" elsewhere. I epoxied it in. The flat sides are easy, the hull side is harded. I used 1/2" foam curved, epoxied in layers on the hull side. After the foam was in place I used fiberglass mat with epoxy to create a liner. I replaced the two door lid with a single door that I built. It is larger than the two doors from IP. It has double seals, again from Lowes, 4" thick insulation. The whole thing works well, it uses about 40 Amp Hrs. / day in hot weather. There is one small fan that circulates cold air from the bottom to the top - it is uniformly 33 digress everywhere. I also installed a light that lights when you open the door, just like at home. Really makes it nice because the box is about 12 cubic feet plus the freezer compartment. I built two layers of Lexan shelves. This box is also cooled by an AB air cooled Cold Machine. I am sure that the Frig a Boat with a keel cooler is more efficient - - but it you have to haul the boat you can't keep the food cold.

I have seen several fancy $700K+ sail boats with external "insulation diapers" that they hang on the outside of the hull from the life lines when anchored in the trades because their refrig's are on the starboard sunny side of boat. We don't do that in our old IP

I am interested in both your "low cost" and keep it simple approaches to improving the insulation. My plan is to do similar on my IP29 this spring. Do you have any photos of where you made your cuts with the feinsaw?