maxi prop zinc

looking at a IP 31 with a maxi prop- it needs a new zinc- any idea what size to get?

thanks

Don

Yep!
If the photo comes through it is "C" below.
Keith

Although I should add it is always best to take your own measurments.
Keith

Thanks for your help. probably a 1" shaft. but i will measure it.
I don't own the boat just yet- i want to put a new zinc on before the sea trial so i don't need to have it hauled just to change the zinc.

The 31 is a great boat. We have had ours almost a year. Sailed her about a dozen times including a few overnights. We decided to sell the house and live on ours. We are currently trying to get her and ourselves ready for some extended cruising along the coast.

Anything specific to the boat we should look at during our inspection.
i've tried to read everything i could find on-line so far.

Thanks for the suggestion.I have a buddy who is a mechanic in the national guard, for the diesel inspection- so im leaving that in his capable hands. My previous boat has an Atomic 4 gas engine so this diesel thing is another world for me.

My major concerns right now are the condition of the sails and the canvas.
Are leaks from the deck fittings known problems?
Aluminum tanks leaking?
Access to plumbing and electrical systems?

I have been really impressed with the deck fittings they don't seem to leak. If they do weep just a tiny bit the boat seems to drain it very very well to the bilge and I have not had any problems with wet conditions or anything that bothered me at all. And I am pretty picky.

I have rebuilt a couple of boats and this one consistently exceeds my expectation for workmanship and production. As you know we live aboard now and that says a lot about how familiar I am by now. I have crawled all around, redoing wiring, including engine harness and fixtures in the boat as well and other multiple projects and am quite familiar with the boat and her construction.

Don't underestimate your ability to work on this diesel. In fact I am sure that as time goes by, with just a tiny bit of effort, you will be doing your own work. Let me strongly encourage you to get A small blue hardback book called troubleshooting Marine diesel. It is a small but highly highly helpful book that will not only show you how to do many things on your own diesel, including troubleshooting problems, but will thoroughly familiarize you with the diesel engine. It is readily available from Amazon and you can see the cover on my avatar. The one beside the beer bottle on the beach in the Bahamas. You really must get it. Even if you have deep pockets and do not want to touch your engine, it will allow you to understand what is going on and speak intelligently with the diesel mechanics that you will pay dearly for. It will also help you avoid getting ripped off. It save you money by directing the mechanic to the problem quickly. Once you read that book you will almost surely want to get Nigel Calder's book on boat mechanics and systems, and the Yanmar 3gm30f manual.

I am fortunate in that my aluminum diesel fuel tank seems to be in excellent repair, although original, and does not seem to have any significant contaminants. The holding tank had already been replaced with a small plastic 6 gallon holding tank which was totally inadequate. I removed the toilet and it's plumbing and installed a nature's head composting toilet which I really like.

If you do purchase the boat we will stay in touch and I will show you the most useful modifications I have made to date, including cutting an opening hatch between the rear quarter birth and the engine itself. This was quite easily accomplished and worked out great. This makes working on the engine exceedingly easy and allows almost complete and total access to the engine as if it were sitting on the table at home.

As far as access goes, I have not had as much problem as on my prior boats. Of course you do have to get used to working in tight places and perhaps in an awkward semi upside down position at times but in spite of that, the access on this boat is exceptionally good.

I saw Hayden's post about compression, and agree. However if the compression is good that does not mean you will not health problems. Two exceedingly common problems are with fuel cleanliness, and the subsequent problems with your injectors. Also, and even more common problem would be the cooling system. The exhaust elbow just aft of the heat exchanger is designed to corrode overtime and has to be replaced. I replaced mind and it was not a difficult job at all. Cost came in at under $400. The book above will explain that and you will understand what I mean almost immediately.
The diesel engine, when warm, should start almost immediately. If it is cold it may take a little bit of work. You understand about starters and not overheating them by trying to start them too long. If the engine will not start, then the first thing to suspect is air in the fuel line. If that is the case, I would bleed the fuel lines after replacing the fuel filter. The opening hatch I installed in the quarter birth to the engine compartment makes this exceedingly easy.

PS, if you look closely you can see the cushion in the quarter birth and the opening I cut to allow access to the starboard side of the engine, the manual fuel pump and secondary fuel filter and most of the places where you bleed the fuel line.
She is a very sturdy boat and we are quite happy with her.

Thanks for your feedback.

I think i've seen that diesel book. might even take a course. is there room to jump down inside the engine room? i like the idea of the hatch on the side of the engine. can you get to the packing gland easily?
looking forward to taking the boat out for a spin next week.
hoping the sails and canvas check out well.
Don