Starter switch only works intermittenly

The starter button on my IP27 often must be pushed several times before the starter kicks in.

Any suggestions on how to remedy this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi I have an IP 27 number 154 with the same problem. When I switch my main battery switch
To all it seems to help.
Thanks

Thanks IP 27 154.

Does anyone know what causes this issue and/or how to repair it?

Thanks

Rossian wrote: Thanks IP 27 154.

Does anyone know what causes this issue and/or how to repair it?

Thanks

Rossian, It seems to me that if you have to push the switch several times and then it suddenly fires off without turning over slowly that it would have to be the switch itself. But I would pull the instrument panel and check your connections in the back. Do you know how to find the wiring diagram or are you already familiar with it?
When I come across general sailboat issues like this that I have not yet tinkered with I will usually go to a much more active site with very good advice. If you have not been to sailboat owners.com, the "ask all sailors forum" is a place you need to become familiar with.
It's worth your time and money as it would be relatively cheap, to just replaced the switch. Don't even think about paying someone to do that! Ha ha

This is a long time issue with IP that really should not exist. Options discussed elsewhere but the most likely to make it go away forever is from Kiltym:

"The issue is the power from the key switch to the starter solenoid, which others have referred to. Basically the Yanmar wire harness is not sized to handle the load properly, especially if there is the slightest bit of corrosion somewhere. This is fairly common on Yanmar engines. There is always a chance there is corrosion somewhere also, but the solution below will deal with some corrosion which is inevitable from the panel to the starter.

The solution. Install a small 12V relay at the starter solenoid. Wire the key switch to the relay. Take power from the positive starter lug to the relay. Then wire the relay to the solenoid. Now the key switch only has to provide enough power for a small 12V relay, basically nothing and will have no issue with that at all.

We installed this solution 3 years ago and have never had the issue again with the solenoid (and in turn the starter) not getting engaged.

Total cost is about $15 for the relay, some short leads of wire, and some connectors.

I have heard of others changing the wire out from the panel to the solenoid with mixed results, but everyone I know who has installed a relay it has fixed the issue for them."

Thanks VERY MUCH for the replies.

I will start with KurtIP31's suggestion before looking at replacing the starter switch.

Fair wind and following seas!

This very same issue was a topic on another sailing forum last week. The cause and fix suggested there was exactly the same as posted here. I have the same issue on our IP27 and had the same Yanmar and the same issue on our previous Islander 28. It's now on my list for fall.

Thanks for confirming Glory.

Well I've installed a relay and the starter engages every single time I push the button. Thanks a bunch for the forum info.
Sail on..

IP27 wrote: Well I've installed a relay and the starter engages every single time I push the button. Thanks a bunch for the forum info.
Sail on..

thanks for the update!

Glad to hear it worked. If not too much trouble, it would help others if you posted the parts you used(part numbers or links). As well as a picture or two. This helps all of us when our setup is a little different.

I've read the blogs on this problem with the Yanmar. I've been experiencing the same issue for some time now and I'd like to fix it. Can anyone share a link to the part number, instructions and a diagram? I great appreciate any help.
Mike

Please go to the engine, fuel forum, there on page 2 , starter motor fail, Diagrams and photo included . A permanent fix to an intermittent problem., at a small expense.
Fair winds
Thor

I am going through this problem right now on my IP 27 (hull 33) but find that the wiring does not match up with that in the Yanmar diagram.

I have the original Yanmar manual for the 2GM20F (with wiring diagram) and the owner’s manual that came with the boat, but the wiring to the solenoid does not match up with these.

The wires at the starter button are 12 gauge white, but I see that the white wire on the solenoid is 8 or 10 gauge (so it is not the same wire). Also, the “switched” wire coming from the pushbutton is plugged into a wire on a separate 2-wire harness that I cannot find in any diagram; it does not go into one of the Yanmar harness connectors. (The other wire on this 2-wire harness is a mystery.)

Could the factory have added a relay (or some other device) between the starter button and the starter solenoid, in 1985? Can anyone steer me to a wiring diagram that covers the engine wiring added by Island Packet wiring in some more detail?

If the factory did add a relay, where might it be hiding?

Thanks,
Art

Art: The IP27 did not come from the factory with the relay that's discussed in this thread and the threads mentioned above. If one was added, it could be mounted somewhere in the engine compartment near the starter solenoid, or it could be taped to the harness (and basically invisible under the tape).

I installed a relay on my IP27-146 last year and it made a world of difference. There are photo essays and wiring diagrams on this and the IPHomePort sites.

Michael Luskin
"Turtleheart" IP27-146
Scarsdale, NY

Whatever I have is installed very, very cleanly. My push-button switch is wired to one of the many 2-wire, grey sheathed, harnesses running in the port locker and engine compartment. (Perhaps the original dealer added it early on.)

I'm going to see if I can trace this harness tomorrow and I will let you know what I find.

Thanks,
Art
Forked River, NJ

This IP 27 (hull 33) does not have any additional starter relay, but it did have a previously disabled neutral starting interlock switch built onto the shifter. This was connected via my mystery harness (which does not appear in any of the diagrams). The switch had been disconnected and the ends of the wire spliced, but this additional 10-15 feet of 12 gauge wire (and splice) was enough resistance to create problems with the pull-in of the solenoid. I bypassed this harness with 2 inches of wire right at the push-button and she now starts with every push.

Note that the local repair shop tells me they sell a lot of those push-buttons. They are out in the elements and fail frequently.

Best,
Art