Shrinkwrapping

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16 years 6 months ago #226 by Galileo
Shrinkwrapping was created by Galileo
Hello,

Does anyone have a comment on shrinkwrapping?

We have never done this before with our other boat, but with all the teak refinishing, etc we have done this year on Galileo think it is a good idea to protect everything during this upcoming winter.

Vents? Access panel? Down to waterline? What happens to rub rails? Etc., etc., etc.?


Larry
s/v Galileo

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16 years 6 months ago #227 by Pelagic
Replied by Pelagic on topic Re:Shrinkwrapping
I always have the boat shrink wrapped down to the waterline. Be sure they cut some vents in both sides of the bow and stern areas. I pick up 12 hanging units(in 4 boxes)of Damp Rid at HD or Lowes and hang them liberally throughout the boat's interior. I hang 6 of them right after the shrink wrap goes on in December and replace them in February, and I have never had a problem with mildew or mold.

One advantage of the shrink wrap is that the boat stays much cleaner than leaving it uncovered. It also allows me to go aboard from time to time and do a few chores as the interior gets up to a pleasant temperature on sunny days.

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16 years 6 months ago - 15 years 1 month ago #228 by hayden
Replied by hayden on topic Re:Shrinkwrapping
Hi Larry:

We shrink wrap our IP35 at Tolechester Marina, MD by “Clayzey Detailing and Safe Harbor Marine” and find it well worth the money. We currently (Oct 25, 2009)are out and already wrapped and winterized. This will stay on for Oct to early April giving us 6 months under cover. Since we have been doing this, we always get our varnish teak in great shape during Sept/Oct with a service coat and making sure it is well sealed. Then it stays out of the sun all winter long and the snow stays off and it will look great in the spring. Another advantage to wrapping is that we leave the entire canvas package up and in place including the full enclosure! They wrap right overtop the boom, over the solar panels and down to the waterline. This also save a lot of effort in the fall and the spring since we do not have to remove the canvas or stow the enclosure. A new feature we learned this past spring while preparing the bottom and waxing is that we could simply cut the cover up to the point we needed giving us an extra 3 weeks with the cover. So, for example, weekend #1 in the spring we start with bottom paint, so we cut the cover just up to the boot stripe leaving it still protecting the haul and topsides. Weekend #2 need to compound and wax, so we cut the cover up to the gunwale leaving it still tight around the lifelines down to the deck. Now we can wax. Weekend #3, we may remove the cover, or if we are doing work inside, leave it on one more weekend. The amazing aspect to this, is that the cover stays tight and will not flap and this gives us an extra 3 weeks on the investment. I use to arrive for the first weekend of work and remove the entire wrap, only to work on the haul or bottom….DUH….now I cut the cover with scissors to where I need to work and keep it on as long as possible.

So with the advantages of leaving the canvas on and cutting off in stages, we get full value out of our shrink wrap job. Cost is about $700 dollars. Here is a photo of (L to R) IP380 Memphis Belle, IP35 Island Spirit, IP35 Lucille in Tolechster Marina, MD, the best place for haul out!

Hayden

Hayden Cochran
IP35-165 Island Spirit
IslandSpirit35.blogspot.com
Rock Hall, MD
Last edit: 15 years 1 month ago by hayden.

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16 years 5 months ago #249 by Galileo
Replied by Galileo on topic Re:Shrinkwrapping
Hayden, and the second person(?),

Thanks for your inputs.

One thing I have been doing on the two boats that we have owned over the years is when layed up I remove the depth sensor and the speed wheel from their respective thru-hulls to create a chimney effect in the boat to draw some fresh air into it.

On the inside side of the thru-hull I tie-wrap a dryer exhaust plastic sack to keep out any varmits from coming in through the thru-hull. Never had any intrusions, but thought it might keep the birds out.

Seems to work.

Of course you do have to make sure you replace them in the Spring before going back overboard.


Larry Rossi
s/v Galileo IP 37-44

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