IP320 Sailing Characteristics versus IP29 and IP31

We are IP wannabee's and are interested in buying an IP320 for use in New England and Canadian Atlantic waters mostly. As new members of this group, are not sure this is the correct place to ask this question so feel free to correct us.

Understanding the historical development path was the 31, then the 29 and then the 320; we wonder if anyone has sailed on the 320 and either or both of the predecessors and have any comments to offer on sailing performance, particularly any differences in under 12 knots of wind and when running under reduced sail at over 20 knots of apparent wind. Though we appreciate the ergonomic improvements in the 320, we would hesitate if it sails worse than the 31 or 29.

Thank you in advance. Dan and Wendy

I haven't sailed a 320 but we sailed 15,000nm on a 350 IP. They are faster than the 35. I would buy a 320 or a 29 before a 31. The 31 is very blunt. My experience with IPs is that water line rules.

Also, the layout of the 320 is way.... better. You know, you can buy a 38IP for about the same $$$ and then you have a huge/safe/faster boat. I am not sure my IP 40 is faster than a well sailed IP 38.

Just my opinion.

George

FYI
IP29 LWL 25'7"
IP320 LWL 27"
IP31 LWL 27'9"
IP31 wins

When we were exploring the various Island Packets smaller in size than our Lady Josephine (IP-35/92), in order to downsize, we considered the IP-31, IP-29 and the IP-27.
In all fairness, I must say that I did not sail the IP-31, but I did sail the 27 and the 29, which both performed flawlessly under sail in some serious wind.

I was told by several owners at various IP Rendezvous NOT to consider buying the IP-31, because it's hull design was not in keeping with the others, if speed was important. Now I'm not a Naval Architect, but I looked at an IP-31 Sloop for sale on the hard at a marina on Lake Erie, and it appeared that it had the hull design of a tug boat.(No offense to IP-31 Owners), so we discounted the IP-31, and we purchased a sleek IP-29, which meets our expectations on all points of sail.

Here are the average PHRF ratings for the following IP's

IP27 216
IP320 204
IP32 198
IP31 195

I could not find a PHRF rating for an IP29, but it would probably fall somewhere between the 27 and 32's rating. Perhaps you should have sailed an IP31, before determining it would perform like a "tugboat".

Don't give up on the 31 just yet.

As we all know in the laboratory an IP29 may sink ( to make a boat disappear by leaving it behind the horizon) a 31, but think of all the forces in play besides hull speed; Sail trim, condition of sails, bottom, seas, weather, tide and current where you sail, etc etc.

Take a second look at the 31 if, like me, you don't want to break the bank. Built to the same high (or higher) standards as the newer IP's, the IP31 is a lot of boat for the buck. We are full time cruisers and love ours. It is especially affordable, roomy enough, and leaves me plenty of greenbacks to use for rum, boat parts, charity, etc.

BTW here is an copy of an older post by hayden discussing sail trim and sailing characteristics of the IP cutter.

Hayden wrote:
Tom:
Sailing close hauled is one of my favorite points of sail, because I come from 8 yrs of dinghy racing, then 10 yrs of J-35 racing, so I love to sail upwind. I will say, getting a Packet to sail upwind is NO EASY TASK! Here are the keys I have learned.
1. No cutter, it is pointless upwind unless used to steady the boat in high winds say 20-30 off the bow motoring. It will not help you sail upwind.
2. Jib car position is KEY. Basically, forward for reaching and aft for beating, then adjust as needed to power the head of the jib. If the top is liffing, then move the car forward a little.
3. Main sheet tension...TIGHT as TIGHT can be and not above centerline. No need for vang upwind as the sheet will do all the work.
4. Jib sheeted to one to spreader tip, this is the limiting factor on how tight you can sheet the jib. For me, with 135% I sheet it to 1-6 inches off the spreader tip, upwind and with my jib car all the way aft.
5. Tell Tales on the aft edge of the main, 3-4 of them up the leech. This will show you if the main still has attached air flow on the BACK SIDE of the main as the air flows off the sail. If these tells are not streaming aft, then the main is over sheeted, or traveled up too high. The main sheet tension is key to sailing upwind and these tells show you if the main is flowing with the air that is being driven into the slot by the jib.
6. If you see the jib top aft, leech luffing, when sheeted in fully then your car is in the wrong position or you are too high. Keep working this car position until the jib leech breaks evenly top to bottom, this is key.

Now, set sail on the autopilot to wind vane mode and let the boat stay in the groove. We can set this to 40 degrees in normal winds, 10-20 knots true, and up to 37 degrees with winds 25-27 knots true close hauled.

Reef the main foirst, keep the jib full as long as you can. We can sail close hauled up to 27 knots true wind speed with a reefed main. Once we see 30 knots close hauled true winds, we need to reef the jib down to 110%. Still close hauled we can sail this up to 35 knots true wind. Over 35 knots we reach off to 120 degrees wind angle and furl the jib downwind when the boat is doing 8 knots. Then we turn back upwind on the reefed main, roll out the cutter and with a cutter, and reefed main, we can keep sailing 35 knots upwind. It is not comfortable, and if at night, we will drop the main and motor the cutter into the wind with the vane set to 20-25 degrees. This is exactly what we just did offshore from Atlantic City, NJ to Block Island in 35 knot winds from 2100hrs to 0300hrs all night long!

So, sailing upwind is great, I am always amazed at how well an IP will sail upwind when set up right.


best wishes,
keith