Prop Shaft Flange
Wednesday - August 8, 2007•Views: 7694••
After removing the prop shaft and replacing the cutlass bearing I noticed that the shaft flange did not properly mate with the keel. I contacted the factory and they advised that they shim the flange until it is in proper alignment using teak shims before final assembly. After talking with Norm Pierce several years ago decided to go with a hot mix of thickened epoxy to true up the flange support area and do away with the shims once and for all.
The first step in the process was to make sure that the engine was centered in the boat and then completed a shaft alignment. Then pulled the flange loose, removed traces of 5200 and sanded the hull to prepare for the epoxy. Wiped everything down good with acetone then liberally applied mold release wax to the flange. After the wax was dry then mixed a small batch of epoxy and added West system fileting mix to bring the mix to the consistency of peanut butter.
Liberally applied the thickened epoxy to the hull and then forced the flange back into position and tightened the mounting bolts lightly pulling the flange into final position. Cleaned up the epoxy that overflowed the new joint with a tongue depressor and waited for the epoxy to dry. Then pulled the flange away from the cured epoxy, trimmed the edges, and reassembled the flange using a liberal amount of 5200. Rechecked the shaft alignment and it was still fine.
The first step in the process was to make sure that the engine was centered in the boat and then completed a shaft alignment. Then pulled the flange loose, removed traces of 5200 and sanded the hull to prepare for the epoxy. Wiped everything down good with acetone then liberally applied mold release wax to the flange. After the wax was dry then mixed a small batch of epoxy and added West system fileting mix to bring the mix to the consistency of peanut butter.
Liberally applied the thickened epoxy to the hull and then forced the flange back into position and tightened the mounting bolts lightly pulling the flange into final position. Cleaned up the epoxy that overflowed the new joint with a tongue depressor and waited for the epoxy to dry. Then pulled the flange away from the cured epoxy, trimmed the edges, and reassembled the flange using a liberal amount of 5200. Rechecked the shaft alignment and it was still fine.
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