Rudder Post Security

Compiling a list of items to inspect prior to a long-distance transit, my wife asked me something I was not able to answer: How is the rudder and rudder post secured in its bearings (vertically)? I found that I simply can't tell - I've visually inspected the rudder post, and can say that the only structures keeping it in the boat (besides the rudder-keel strap) are the appendages to it - the autopilot rudder indicator, and the heavy bronze Edson Steering Quadrant which is at the top of the rudder post, secured with four bolts and a heavy brass key. Is there something else I am missing? I can find nothing that supports the rudder besides the rudder quadrant where it sits on top of the helm shaft (old worm gear steering).
I had some work done on the rudder recently, and want to know if I am missing some key piece of rudder post hardware that may be the difference between my arriving safely and my having to call TowBoatUS to get a free bail out.

We have stainless steel two piece shaft collar on our prop shaft to keep it from sliding out, we bought ours from McMaster-Carr industrial supply. The collar clamps around the shaft. You can get them in a wide range of sizes, not cheap but worth every penny. They usually ship next day. Hope this helps.

Per Haydens request: The rudder on most models since 1985 ( the oldest models I have worked on) is supported by a heavy nylon thrust washer on the shaft between the top of the blade and the hull, then the rudder stuffing box inside the hull, then a collar on the shaft with a grease fitting above the cockpit sole inside the helm seat. The RACK AND PINION steering system provides little to no support to the rudder shaft. Should one desire to grease the collar in the seat, a grease gun with a two foot hose will reach or by the removal of a few screws the seat can be moved forward for access.

As to securing the propeller shaft, a zinc donut will do the job mounted just forward of the stuffing box.

I'll inspect tonight when I get back aboard to see if I have the collar you speak of. Does the collar need to be removed when dropping the rudder? If so, is it possible the yard forgot to reinstall when they reinstalled the rudder?
Regardless - I do know there is a fairly significant gap between the blade and the hull (1/4 to 1/2 inch), and that this nylon washer isn't doing much to support the rudder unless this condition changes while underway.

Thanks for the information - I'll let you know if I find the collar you refer to.

Your IP38 owners manual has a nice description of the rudder system, similar to what Norm described. Just the part regarding the rudder support is included below.

"The rudder is supported by two bronze bearings. The lower bearing, built into the hull immediately above the rudder, is a combination packing box and bearing. Routine inspection and adjustment, if required, of this packing box should be made to ensure a continued watertight seal of the packing material. Repacking of this requires 3/8" square packing material. Access is through the cockpit locker.

The upper bearing is bolted to the cockpit and is visible inside the steering seat base. A bronze locking collar supports the rudder vertically just above this bearing, with a low friction plastic thrust washers providing minimum friction.

The bottom of the rudder has a stainless steel strap engaging the bottom of the rudder and running to the lower aft end of the keel. This strap is not intended to be a rudder support; it serves as a deflector for lines and debris."

As to forgetting the collar, I doubt it could be omitted as it is what holds the rudder from dropping down.
With the rudder suspended in air, a gap of 1/4 to 3/8 inch is normal. The rudder is filled with foam and will float upwards on most models if no water has gotten inside the rudder.

Norm Pierce wrote: As to forgetting the collar, I doubt it could be omitted as it is what holds the rudder from dropping down.
With the rudder suspended in air, a gap of 1/4 to 3/8 inch is normal. The rudder is filled with foam and will float upwards on most models if no water has gotten inside the rudder.

Thanks Norm. Found the collar (not hard once you know what you're looking for). I had originally assumed that what I was seeing was the upper rudder bearing, but once I started turning the helm, I could see that it moves with the rudder post.

I recently discovered that one of the four bolts securing my rudder shaft stuffing box to the hull has sheered off. The remaining three are pretty rusty. I would like to replace the bolts, but the bolt heads appear to be captive in the hull. I've hauled out and do not see any evidence of the bolt heads on the exterior.

Has anyone replaced the bolts or the entire rudder shaft stuffing box?

Any info would be appreciated.

Hoping someone picks up on this old post.

Has anyone greased their rudder post bearing on an IP380?

My rudder post started squeaking pretty bad up near the bearing beneath the helm seat. If there was a grease fitting it has broken - I can feel a sharp shard sticking rearward about the size of a grease fitting.

What is the bolt and nut on the forward facing side of the bearing housing? For removal of the shaft I presume???
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Anyhow I'll need to get my little phone cam on a wire set up and have a better look at what I think is the broken grease fitting. The how the hell to replace the fitting.