Fitting a replacement Cabin Sole

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10 years 1 month ago #4260 by [email protected]
I have an IP320 based in the UK. At last after 5 years of getting around to replace the teak and holly cabin sole.
I've lifted the edging trim pretty easily by using a narrow flat blade wall paper scrapper under the trim and tap with a mallet to sever the small brass fixing pins, revealing plenty of screws used to fix the floor down.
I had wanted to check over the "under floor" tanks, but after undoing all the screws, I still can't lift the floor out.
I'd be grateful for any ideas that don't involve chopping the floor up as I want to use the existing base for the new teak veneer.

thanks
David

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10 years 1 week ago #4319 by Ed Finn
Replied by Ed Finn on topic Fitting a replacement Cabin Sole
David
I have an IP 35 built in 1990
The teak floor is 3/4" plywood , glued and screwed down I believe all IPs are done this way.
The glue is a powerful agent, probably 5200 caulk.
There is an on line article on this website showing how a guy pried the plywood off the sub floor, and you can search for the photos , but it wasnt easy.
Since you have the trim off, perhaps you can just go with 1/4" teak and holly plywood vener on top of the existing floor
Good luck

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10 years 1 week ago #4323 by [email protected]
Thanks for taking the trouble to post your comment.....really useful to know.....I will go ahead with teak & holly veneer mounted on 1/4" ply base...which .leaves just enough clearance to close the fwd cabin door without taking it off..

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10 years 1 week ago #4324 by hayden
Replied by hayden on topic Fitting a replacement Cabin Sole
David:
Under the teak and holly floor on an Island Packet is the interior fiberglass floor that goes into and under the settees and out to the hull. This can not be lifted out to inspect your tanks. The tanks are installed first and then connected and then this "pan" is fiberglassed in on top of it all. The pan has the openings that you see and can lift out. The wood floor is then glued and screwed down. I have seen mechanics cut into this pan and removed the entire wood floor and the fiberglass pan all at once to replace tanks. They used a reciprocating fine saw and gut not vertical but at a 45 degree angle outward. Then when they lifted out the floor pan they could drop it back in and glue it back down onto this 45 degree angled cut. If you are just trying to redo your floor then the above idea of just installing a new layer of plywood ontop and trimming it out is the best way to go. Cutting out the fiberglass pan is very very difficult.

Hayden,

Hayden Cochran
IP35-165 Island Spirit
IslandSpirit35.blogspot.com
Rock Hall, MD

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10 years 1 week ago #4325 by Ed Finn
Replied by Ed Finn on topic Fitting a replacement Cabin Sole
David,
Hayden is right.
The floor is in two parts, the 3/4" teak and holly plywood, then a sub floor which appears to be 3/4" wood and fibreglass. The two floors are glued and screwed together, and are difficult to seperate. The sub floor is structural, and should not be permemently removed, I guess you could cut out a section as Hayden suggests, and then replace it, securing it back in place with glue and screws. But I wouldn't do this just to inspect the tanks- its just too much work. You could obtain one of those new fibre optic inspection tools designed for just such an inspection. They retail for about $200 over here, and I am sure you could rent such an inspection tool.
Re the tanks, they give me nightmares! But based on feedback on this forum, it is only the waste tank that gives trouble and needs replacement. The fuel tank and water tank seem to last forever. I would not remove the subfloor just to inspect the tanks.
I would remove the inspection plate from the top of the fuel tank, and ensure that there is no residual water in the bottom of the tank. If there is any water in there , then I encourage you to remove it. In this way, you are decreasing the likelyhood of a fuel tank leak. It is the small amount of water that corrodes the fuel tank, not the fuel. Pure fuel is a hydrocarbon, and will not corrode a metal. Usually, there is an inspection plate in the water tank as well, I suggest you remove that, and vacuum out any lose dirt, sand or rust in the water tank.
Regarding the new 1/4" veneer. You might consider putting one coat of varnish on it just as it comes from the supply store- before you bring it to the boat. In this way, you will seal the surface and keep it clean. Thus voiding any stains or dirt becoming ingrained in the surface while you are installing it...
Please let me know how you make out, I need to do mine!

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