IP35 Head Raw Water Supply Line

Hayden:

Not an a 35 - but on our 350. We used Odorsafe hose and tied the new hose to the old. I cut an access panel in the area just aft and under the head so that I could cut several tiewraps. Then pulled the hose out while it was attached to the new. Lesley helped snake the new hose in and we were able to do the job fairly quickly. Our hose is tied to the engine raw water intake which is located just forward and to port of the galley sink in the area where the water tank is visible.

Hose is visible here -

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Bobby

Trying to revive this thread a bit. Working on replacing the raw water hoses to both heads on an IP420, both are "stuck".

Bobby's message seems promising, so I drilled a pilot hole behind the forward head to run a borescope. The results were less than enthusiastic and I'm hoping that I just got a bad angle or poor view.
Of course the image that he supplied has long since gone, and wayback (internet archive) has an old pic, but nothing under the pedestal area

Setup (forward head only in this thread):
1) Head sits on a pedestal of sorts, hose runs from head into this pedestal for roughly 8".
2) Hose runs through a small hole and we lose eyes on it for about 2'
3) I can see the re-emerge (view from under the forward cabin bed), no zip ties here.
4) I can follow the hose toward a T joint under the forward cabin (disconnected now), zip ties here have been removed.

For section 1) above, I get very little play in the hose, pull maybe 2", push about the same, no real twist or anything else.
Borescope shows that movement is fairly free from under the pedestal, but less movement (restricted) as it starts to enter section 2.

Can anyone else confirm or elaborate on Bobby's action? Brute force to snap the zip tie? Cut it open and dig in further? Run a new path?

Included a fun picture of the predicament.

 

On my 1997 IP37 purchased in 2020 the previous owner had put in a VacuFlush toilet and tapped into the freshwater tank. While convenient, I did not like the cost of maintenance on the VacuFlush, the consumption of DC amps nor the use of the fresh water. I replaced it with a modernized version of Raritan PHII. I put a T with a shutoff on the raw water strainer for the engine. I had to snake a new 1" hose to the head. One trick I learned with wiring and hoses is to wipe them with Johnson Baby Powder to reduce friction. Tie the new hose to the old in a manner that does not increase its size (I did not use clamps, but instead very thin Siezing wire and taped over it to make it smooth). If you have two people it makes the job easier - one on the feed end, and one on pull end. Go slow and as you run into resistance try to figure out the cause. Here I used a scope. Often simply rotating the hose got it through the resistance point. The most difficult area I encountered is where the hose goes under the head then up through the hole to the head (you hose picture). Here I had to help it from the point just ahead of the mast and get it to bend enough to enter and slide out of the hole.I cut the original hose at a point under the floor where I had enough to splice the hew hose. I then pulled enough of the new hose out to where I was not fighting two bends. Reconnected the new hose to the short original and fed the last part up. The real challenge is there are multiple bend points as the hose goes from the aft berth area, under the galley sink cabinet to the floor port forward of the mast, where the sink drain hoses go to the through-hull on my IP37. It then makes a sharp left turn towards the back-end of the toilet. So I pretty much did it in reiterating pieces. Get through the first section, gather up enough hose to feed to the next turn. Feed through that turn, go back to each previous turn, gather up enough to feed to next turn and so fort. It takes a while, but is doable. Side note: I did this on my own so there was a lot of getting up and down to work as if there were two people.

On my IP350, I had a gusher leak from my holding tank, so i decided to cap it and pull all the raw head water lines and install a composting toilet (best decision ever!). Anways, roughly the same hose you ID, I couldn't pull. i tried everything. I was ready to give up, but i remember somewhere that there is an anti-siphon device somewhere. I looked behind the recesses of the sink and sure enought there was one and it was preventing the hose to be pulled. I had to basically cut the hose attached to the anti-sipohn device. Then I was able to pull it all the way through.