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Thank you for the response! That's good to know. I had a feeling that it would be better to consider laminate sails. No upper wind limit is very cool. Quantum has a good reputation and we have a loft nearby. Might give them a call.
Having replaced midship plates with new factory one piece units,I soaked the central part of the fibers then brushed in the rest much as the factory did it. I replaced the aft plates sandwiching them with reinforceing the the glass and thru bolts. If I had it to do again, I would do the midship plates the same way, orienting them to the load and upping the gauge of the straps. The aft chain plates are also begging for a change., trust me on this . Change them out.
WARNING, WARNING, don't forget the Bob stay chain plates.. Thru hull plate and the one bolted under the sprit. And the bolts, they are tired to.Just because you can't see most of it,doesn't mean they are not planing to get you. Plenty of stress ther . I have photos of them, Caution, some sailors may find them upsetting. I changed it out while still in the water. Doable if you don't mind getting wet.with a new bobstay, still available from the rigging shop next door to the old IP factory.
Thor, Windependent 31#112
The way I installed mine is as follows:
First, I had mine made individually, so if yours are made as a one unit it may be harder.
I had a helper for this part of the install.
I soaked the part of the strands that wrapped around the chainplates, and had a bit of epoxy microball mix paste on the top of the angle piece where it butts up to the deck. Then I took it and pushed it through the deck where my helper attached the stay to it, he tightened the stay up to put some tension on the chainplate. Then I wetted down the strains with the epoxy. I did this in August in FL so it was very hot... if I remember right, I had over an hour work time ... you should have more with the cooler temps if you are using the slow cure, which was recommended by a fiberglass guy I know. Cliff
Hello Cliff, I recently read your article and I am installing my chain plates port side this weekend.I just have one question. How did you apply the epoxy to the fiberglass strands? Did you wet them down first on a table on plastic ( like the Mack Sails YouTube video) then bring them in and install them? Or did you brush them in directly once the plate was inside the boat? Also did you use a brush or a roller to apply the epoxy to the hull? Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much,
Yes, there is a long storage area above the IP35 Quarter Berth that runs behind the cockpit seats. Many have cut an access panel into this space at eye level when standing in the Qtr berth. I know there are photos of this, but I can not find them right now. I have looked into one of these opened up area and it is rough fiberglass. What I have seem others use this area for is fishing rods and boat hooks and long board storage. I guess you could put a bag of laundry in there as well, why not.
I have seen some frame out the cut out with teak and add a teak door. Some use a plastic hatch lid and cut it and screw it down.
We have not cut this access in, as we fell we have too much stuff on the boat already and this would just give us one more place to fill up
Hayden....off St. Thomas, USVI
Evidently there is a potential storage cavity above the port side quarter berth located underneath the port cockpit seat. Has anyone created a cabinet door in this area and could share photos of how to do it? Seems like a Perfect place for storing dirty laundry im thinking. It wound require a large hole cut (not sure where exactly) and a wooden door. Suggestions welcome.
1. A 14 ft single handed racing sailboat called a Duster because they were designed for the lakes of NJ with no wind so they would just dust along. That was because it had a 12 ft boom and a 21 ft mast above the deck. 8th grade thru college, my father built it and I raced it.
2. A 12 fit wooden runabout on Squam Lake first boat on Squam Lake, refinished and sold it after a couple of years
3. A 15 ft lapstrake wooden run about that I totally refinished once I moved it from South Jersey to NH, sold it after 5-6 yrs
4. A 18 ft center console on a Squam Lake in NH last boat on Squam Lake, worked there for 29 straight summers , probably about 15-18yrs
5. IP 31since 2003
Thanks for the tips; I'm going to dig in tomorrow and see what I can find.
Can you put piggy’s under the genset. Tear them into pieces if you need to. Wait and see if you get an oil spot. That will narrow it down. I’m guessing it doesn’t have a pan under it.
Can you disconnect the hose at the bilge end ? Stuff it with Same and see. Wetserbekes I’ve had always leaked a tad. Like an old triumph. Good luck.
Thanks Hayden just what I wanted to know
We had a small 18 foot racing skiff for 8 years, Loved it. then the IP 27 10 years, then the IP 35 since 2001.
I'm dealing with a slow oil leak that is coming from my Westerbeke generator and is ending up in the bilge on my IP38. I've removed the battery to see if I can identify where it's coming from but there is no APPARENT leak that's right out of the generator itself. The only other thing I can think of is that there is a quick oil change hose that runs from the bottom of the generator down to a pump in the galley floor that makes it easier to remove and replace the oil.I'm surmising that it has a hole that's worn or cut into it at some place and is slowly dripping into the bilge. Has anyone dealt with a similar issue? It's near impossible to track this hose back to the generator so I can't readily see what's transpiring. Any experience here would be a blessing.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Your question - I was thinking about your thoughtful reply and was wondering exactly how a contractor might connect around the transformer? Are you suggesting they would take the feed from a point somewhere before the transformer?
Yes, it is possible that a contractor might have taken the feed before the isolation transformer or maybe they just placed the green wire ground for the air conditioning install back to the incoming earth green wire ground for shore power, going around the isolation transformer for just this one connection.
Our boats have several ground systems and they are connected to only one common point by IP so electrical current does not flow between these systems. The three ground systems are 1) the bonding system connecting all underwater metals(except bow thruster), backstay chainplate, the engine block/prop shaft/rudder shaft and more 2) AC green wire safety ground which should be at the same potential as the AC neutral but have no current flow (kicks off a GFI if it does) 3) DC minus for all current returning back to the batteries.
Since these three ground systems share one and only one common point, it is possible to connect a DC return for a new entertainment system install to an AC ground and things will likely work, but now you allow currents to flow in unintended paths and many strange hard to explain problems can arise such as galvanic corrosion. It takes a thoughtful plan to track down these problems.
Hello there in the UK and thank a lot for your thoughts.
Presently we are still in Germany baking Christmas cookies... But in January we are going to spend 10 days in Sant Carles/Spain in order to fix some of the damage done and also thoroughly research Calypso's electrical problems. I checked our manual and it states that the isolation transformer is in the location you mentioned (I guess instead of the isolator).
On our trip from the Netherlands to Spain we met a bunch of Island Packet owners and it was always a very friendly and amicable get-together.
Best holiday wishes to you all in the UK,
"It is possible when you had air conditioning installs done that the contractor was not familiar with boats with isolation transformers since you do not generally see them on boats less than 45 feet. Thus, they could have connected around the transformer, possibly the AC ground which would defeat the isolation provided by the transformer leading to susceptibility to corrosion issues."
I was thinking about your thoughtful reply and was wondering exactly how a contractor might connect around the transformer? Are you suggesting they would take the feed from a point somewhere before the transformer?
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