Fogging of the Portlights

I'm new to this forum and am interested in purchasing an IP. Thus far I've looked at the IP 380, 40, 45, and most recently an IP 44. Plans for the boat are for long distance cruising mainly up and down the east coast. Through reading this forum and other resources I think I'm fairly educated on what to look for when looking at the IP's.
One topic I haven't seen covered is fogging of the porthole lenses. A boat I looked at yesterday 6 of the lenses were fogging up mostly from the bottom. At first, I thought it was condensation but upon further inspection it was evident that it was something in the glass that could not be cleaned off.
I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this and an approximation of what it might cost to fix. Thanks in advance for your replies.

Thanks Hayden,

After looking at a number of boats, it appears that the IP's will fit my wife and my cruising plans very well. Regarding the portlight issue I'm working with a broker who has been dealing with IP's for quite a few years on the Chesapeake Bay and this is something he has not seen a lot of. He called someone at the factory while we were at the boat yesterday and they haven't seen much of this and recommended to take the portlights to an auto glass spcialist.

Since writing my original post I did further search on the forum and it appears that the same thing happened to another IP44 and the repair seemed fairly simple and reasonable in cost. Thanks again for your response.

So, what was the repair and cost? I have a 1988 IP31 with the same problem. Thanks.

My lenses have fogged too. Per some online guidance (and talking with some folks in the industry - some guys I work with part time also work at NEB, NSY, Hinckley...etc), I managed to rig a polishing system, first using incrementally finer wet sanding disks and finally a very fine cutting compound/polishing compound. Backed it up with 210 Plastic polish and, minus the really deep scratches and pitting, the lenses look as good as new. Took me about a day to do all 13 ports. Would rather spend that money elsewhere than replacing perfectly good lenses - but I understand different folks have different priorities.

I thought I posted this last week, but I don't see it now. Two years ago I replaced all the glass in 11 port lights on my 35. The glass is automotive grade safety glass and as such is 2 glass plates with a film between them to keep them from shattering. Over time this film breaks down around the edge and allows moisture into the space between the glass. I removed one port light and took the frame to my local glass shop and they cut 11 new lens for $8.00 each. Upon their recommendation I used Sikkins 220+ to bond the glass to the metal frames. This is the same product they use to replace windshields. The most difficult part is removing the old glass and cleaning the frames prior to installing the new lens. The first one took about 2 hours, but with practice I was able to complete each one in under 1 hour. The Sikkins 220+ is about $15.00 a tube and I used 2 for the project with a little left over. Total cost to replace all 11 was less than $125.

Mine are glass as well on my IP 35, and wondering what the consensus is on either replacing with the laminate glass or switching to the acrylic and having them done by a company, such as, Select Plastics? What would be the advantage of going either way beyond the obvious differences?

Hello,

I am using your guidance to replace my 9 fogged portlights on my 1988 31'. My glass shop is charging $25 each, still a good deal.

Did you remove the glass frame from the hinge, or work it as is? Were you able to reuse the insulation around the glass or buy new? Any further tips would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

Otto Fowich This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Daytona Beach, FL

Hey Freash Boarder,

Please email me This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

I thought I was emailing you directly but it ended up in the blog. Thanks. Otto Fowich

I think it would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to replace the glass without removing the opening part of the port light from the fixed frame.

I removed the opening part of the port from the fixed by driving the slotted spring pin out with a punch. It is not difficult and the pins can be reused. I took the port light home on the workbench and used a utility knife to cut the bonding between the glass and the frame. The sealant that is use is very tenacious and difficult to remove, even after going around the frame with the knife. I cut a piece of 3/4 plywood the same size as the glass and used c-clamps to press the glass out. You still have to cut some of the sealant away as the glass begins to separate from the metal.

Once separated I cleaned all the old sealant off the metal before trying to install the new glass. This takes some time since it adheres so well. To reassemble I ran a bead of sealant on the inside of the frame, dropped the glass into the frame, ran another bead of sealant around the glass before pressing the U channel into the frame. To get it tight I reversed the plywood/c-clamp that I used to press the glass out to press the new glass in. kept the clamps in place and left each unit sit overnight before removing the clamps and trimming the excess sealant from the glass/metal. The only thing holding the glass in the frame is the sealant. I used Sikkins 220+. After the first one I started taping off the glass and metal to make cleanup easier.

If you haven't replaced the rubber gaskets yet I recommend you do so. I had replaced mine previously so I just reused them. I purchased them from IP, but I note that they show as out of stock.
I am sorry I did not take any pictures. Hope this helps.

My 1984 IP31 has plastic port lights. They were hazed like old car headlights. I used headlight renew compound kit. Each port light took about 30 minutes. Cost about $15.