Please donate to help us pay for our programmers and the software code purchased to make the new IPYOA photo application a reality. We are asking for your support to help us recover the $4,000 in expenses we paid this past year.
Thank you, sincerely,
Hayden and Radeen
The Island Packet Mail Server is run by Bruce Gregory and is a fantastic tool for connecting and communicating with the Island Packet Owners using your email tools. Please use this link below to join the IP Mail server. The yearly fee is $20 and Bruce will send you information about payment after you sign up.
I have an IP 31 and did the chain plate replacement myself about 1 1/2 years ago. I ordered the new plates made of 316 SS from Chain Plate Express in Texas. I had them made individually made instead of the original design, I saw no reason to tie 3 chain plates together with a long crossbar, price was less than 50% of what IP wanted for the chain plate kit. I did get the FG strands and sealant from IP. It's a labor intensive, time consuming job, that's why they want 10K, but it's doable. I documented it with pictures the on the Home Port website. I haven't been on this forum for some time, hence the late post on this topic.
Back in 2012 we pulled the boat and discovered blisters on the rudder. This was after being in the water for two years straight. Paint was, and still is, Trinidad SR. We removed the rudder for repair and discovered serious damage to the hull at the stuffing box. Apparently the boat had been driven hard aground while in reverse during its previous life in charter service. Read about the damage and repair here (ip42035-35.blogspot.com). This certainly isn't a common problem for IPs but the moral of the story is to routinely check all hull penetrations and bonding connections. Also take it easy when in reverse. And if you do run aground don't just shine it off. Visually inspect all areas affected both inside and out. Also, never ever ever buy a boat that was previously in charter service.
La Vida Dulce
I certainly do not have a definitive answer for you, but I suggest that if you haven't done so already, search this site and the IP Home Port Site and the IPMail site for postings on this topic. Assume you've checked the obvious: all bearings, fittings, shaft/rudder stock, center seam, etc., and checked the rudder itself for internal moisture, blistering, etc. ML
Does the lack of any comment imply that the rudders on IP's are bullet proof and that no one has really had any issues?
I would be very happy if that is so!
Ok thanks. I've noticed several places noted on ActiveCaptain where it looks like we'll have to be extra careful. Especially just south of Cross Bank in Cotton Key Basin between R78 and R84. I guess we'll just have to time it to come through close to high tide.
Thank you for your query.
Since doing that post, we have sailed down the east coast of Australia, sailed around Tasmania ... and are now back in Sydney on our way north.
Aside from occasions when the boat has been laid up, we have rarely used marinas (I think they are called slips in USA), and whilst we try to use courtesy moorings when available, there has been a lot of anchoring.
We do have the 100mm pipe at a 45 degree angle, then the board a bit like Hayden & Radeen's. That has been unchanged. Hopefully the pic will attach okay.
We have managed to find anchorages (and weather conditions) where we have not found it necessary to deploy more than 45 metres of chain. Thank goodness!
What we have done in retain 52m in the starboard (main) half of the chainlocker. The other 25 m is in the port half, on top of spare chain and an anchor warp.
And yes, it still pyramids, but Helen loves the exercise of racing through the cabin to get "gritty" hands - particularly if the captain has been losing concentration with the deck wash!
So, we continue to favour sandy anchorages, with well less than 10m of depth ... that aren't rolly, or choppy!!
Basically, we have done nothing!
I just know that murphy will provide an unexpected severe wind change in a congested anchorage, or with limited searoom ... I am sure we all know the drill!
Let us know further thoughts!
PS:- pic of Joule, just now in Blackwattle Bay, Sydney, Australia - in 3metres of water ... Sydney CBD skyline dominates! It's muddy though! (Damn ... it wouldn't attach!)
I know this is an old thread, but if you happen to be around I'd be very interested to see what you came up with to solve your pyramiding issue.
Hoping for the best, but fearing the worst i have been working through my 485 checking for any weaknesses, potential problems, etc in the hope of relatively trouble free cruising further afield.
And so the rudder is crucial, and i am aware (but not in ips) that rudders can i do suffer fromwater ingress into the core and other weakness which can (but rarely) result in catastrophic failure.
So i am interested if anyone knows or has any comments on ip rudders generally and whether they are ever a problem area.
Hoping to leave Boot Key by end of Feb.
Still have not decided Bahamas vs Fl west coast.
Bob and Carol,
Thanks again. We are very familiar with the west coast and would be more than happy too help any way we can. When are you leaving Boot Key ?
Blind faith - pump out boat comes to you weekly. There are 2 large dinghy docks, one in front of office area and the second is down a canal next to the office. Hard and soft dinghies are separated. Room for about 100+ dinghies. There are 2 hose bibs on the dock for filling water jugs (a busy stop). We are thinking of exploring the Fla west coast and hope to meet you and discuss options.
In picture 5 above, you can see the Edson arm clamped onto the rudder post and the bolt on the arm. We drilled into the rudder post and this bolt presses into that hole.
Tge arm is very tight due to the clamping of the arm around the rudder post.
This has 20,000+ nm on it.
We did not drop tge rudder.
The machine shop who is boring the tiller arm thinks a bolt is a bad idea as too much torque on it and suggests cutting a keyway in the arm and shaft. Don't really want to drop the rudder, so he also suggested having the key tig welded on the shaft. Obviously Edson felt the bolt was fine for our boat since they will build them either way. Think we may just go that way as I am not crazy about dropping the rudder or welding in the boat.