The Island Packet Mail Server is run by Bruce Gregory and is a fantastic tool for connecting and communicating with the Island Packet Owners using your email tools. Please use this link below to join the IP Mail server. The yearly fee is $20 and Bruce will send you information about payment after you sign up.
I need to replace a couple of the tailpipes on the ball valves for the holding tank on my IP380 (I scratched them up a bit getting them off to replace the tank). Any idea what the original parts are or suggestions of a good alternative? These are the yellow plastic bits that go between the bronze ball valve and the rubber waste hose. (1-1/2" male NPT to 1-1/2" ID hose barb). Thanks!
Tom & Jen -
I had one made by custom polyethylene fabricator in, for all places, Spokane, Washington. He took the sizes and welded it up. It wasn't particularly expensive, and just slipped right in. It is as sound as I could ever imagine it would need to be. I talked to 2 or 3 fabricators, before choosing the one I did.
I'll be in Mystic this summer one way or another, either with the IP 29 or without, so please do contact me. I'm at 917-535-296 seven. I"d love to hear some of your stories!
Does anyone know the outside diameter of the shaft log? I can't get my caliper in there to measure without removing the hose, and I don't want to go through all that.
Let me tell you what I have done chasing driveline vibe / shaft whip.
1. Pulled shaft and had machine check run out, replace cutlass, align engine
2. Replaced all four engine mounts and re-aligned to nearly perfect alignment
3. Removed shaft again, had machine shop reduce shaft length by 1.25" to decrease overhang to 1", check run out again, new cutlass
4. Install Brunton's Sigma drive, after Sigma drive install, while tied to dock, zero vibration at any RPM, smooth as butter, but underway vibration begins at 2,100 to 2,900, smooth again at 3,000 and above. Making 2100 to 2900 unusable and I'm not going to cruise at 3,000 and above, way too fast.
However at 2,000 RPM I'm making 6.5 kts so that has always been and if I keep this prop will continue to be my cruise RPM.
I believe it is due to the water flow off of the deadwood, and IP 38 has a lot of deadwood, and the prop has to be running in disturbed flow when underway. It's an Autoprop and it self pitches based on centripetal force and induced flow, and I think the turbulence off of the keel is my problem, and is not "fixable".
The Sigma drive is a brilliant piece of machinery, it's nothing really but a Rzeppa joint, but eliminates shaft alignment being an issue
I too had engine vibration for many years. I pulled the stern tube, rebuilt that, I balanced the shaft, balanced the prop and still had issues with engine vibration. Then I discovered the forward port engine mount vertical stud was broken, BUT you would never know this due to the weight of the engine. It was broken under the flange. The way it was found was when we pried under the mount and tried to lift the engine. There it was, the engine lifted off the mount. The mount was broken is such a way they you could not see it. We replaced the engine mounts, realigned the engine and put on our factory standard fixed prop. Guess what, no more vibration. So our issue was a busted forward port engine mount that looked normal and a very unbalanced folding prowel prop.
Good luck find your vibration.
I have been to the factory a couple of years ago to discuss a refit and I know their position on dripless shaft seals, but there are just too many boats out there with them to believe they are a major problem, and many top end boats come fitted with them too. I don't mind the water ingress so much as I don't like having to adjust the thing.
I have the mechanical aptitude to change one if necessary and enough pumps to deal with the leak.
I'll start maybe if I can find some tools to use with Gore GFO packing, however being graphite impregnated that has possible galvanic issues.
I have been fighting drivetrain vibration issues since I have had the boat, and am pretty much now convinced its just an operating characteristic of the prop I have and I need to either resolve myself to it or go with a different prop.
This has had me paying more attention to the drive train than normal, hence me having to mess with the stuffing box more than normal.
We may be vastly different, but on our IP32, there are 2 sizes - 1-7/8 and 2 inch. One is the retaining nut, the other the stuffing box bonnet. I forget which is which, but imagine the retaining nut is the smaller. I use 2 crow's foot wrench heads. One is modified by a flat spot ground on one side to give it a bit more room to turn in the narrow space. I also can get a pair of vice grips in to add some "rotational stability."
Hope this helps. I've never seen the stuffing box on a 38, so this may not apply at all, but fwiw, there ya are.
I can take up the qtr berth and measure our IP35 1.25" stuffing box cap nut in a day or two. As for dealing with this, it is a pain, but we use a 30" crow bar and a hammer to loosen and tighten this cap nut. It works. The threads are normal threads, righty tighty. We also use PB blaster to loosen it up. We also like to loosen it every year and make sure we can move it.
I had asked the IP factory to switch ours out in 2013 to the dripless system and they would not do it. They said that they know of situations where yachts sank due to that system, so they rebuilt ours with original gear. It is a pain, but it also very safe.
I will be trying a new tool next time, I bought a chain wrench that I am hoping I can grip the cap nut with and then use this to loosen it. I have not tried that yet.
I Have an IP 38, Hull #41. The stuffing box is a bear to get to, real tight. It takes a hammer to adjust the nuts on the box, something I loathe to do.
I have an odd plumbing wrench that you can almost get onto the nuts, but I would like to be able to buy some stuffing box wrenches to see if I can make those work, if not then I guess I will go dripless, as I see no other real long term alternative
Does anyone now the size of the nuts on the stuffing box of an IP 38. 1.25" shaft of course.
I have a 1997 IP 350 with a 3jhe Yanmar Engine. Is there any zincs associated with the engine cooling system or any zincs on the engine at all?
You do NOT have to drop the rudder - at least I didn't on my IP32.
I took the transmission/shaft joining plate off the prop shaft at the transmission end. That gave me the ability to move that end of the shaft side to side somewhat. Loosen the boot at the packing gland, and open up the gland.
With that done, I was able to extract the prop shaft out the back ALONGSIDE the rudder. But the rudder was fully in place. Once the prop shaft is out, the rest is a just grunt work with the stern tube and cutlass bearing. I took the whole stern tube out and a friend took it to a machine shop to have the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in w/ a hydraulic press. (When I say "I" did this, make no mistake, the correct phrase is "a friend and I" - this really is a 2 person job.)
By the way, we did this work at Safe Cove... I guess the safe cove guys weren't paying attention that week LOL
Hope this helps.
Eric - in 8 kts of wind i can do about 3 kts. 12 kts of wind get up to 4 kts. 15 kts of wind will get me to 5 or 6 kts. I can easily do 35 degrees to windward and about the same as you downwind. I have a replacement Yanmar 3YM30 which moves us along at 6 knots max; usually I motor about 5.5 kts and in my opinion is quiet. However, I also think I have extra insulation around the engine compartment.
This is a full keel relatively heavy displacement boat and only 32 feet overall. For the size it does well but I would never call it fast. What I would say is that for the size it has lots of space, is very well built, will handle heavy weather, is very safe, and can be solo sailed. I also think they are good classic looking boats!
Let me know what you decide to do and maybe we can meet in Mystic this summer.
Just a thought, concerning "outrageous pricing." It might be worth the time to get to know your local John Deere parts people. John Deere uses lots of Yanmar engines on their products. A number of Yanmar products are private labeled for John Deere and sell at much less than Yanmar retail. 2 years ago, the JD parts people ordered the entire set of exhaust system parts (for IP-32) - from the block to the hose (see Hayden's diagrams above) - for me, from their Yanmar dealer in Seattle. $350-ish total my cost. Probably comparable to Hayden's pricing.
I asked Jerry at the Hake/IPY factory, he replied with this...
Continued - 2) take mast down and travel down the Mississippi. We're on an IP370. Does anyone have photos of the mast down but on their boat when...Continued - 2) take mast down and travel down the Mississippi. We're on an IP370. Does anyone have photos of the mast down but on their boat when traveling? We'll appreciate any thoughts on either route. Show more
We're trying to decide what route we want to take from Lake Michigan to Florida. We're considering 1) through St. Lawrence Seaway, down the east...We're trying to decide what route we want to take from Lake Michigan to Florida. We're considering 1) through St. Lawrence Seaway, down the east coast. In this case we're wondering how difficult it would be to go against the Gulf Stream in the fall. It seems like lots of boaters must travel south down the east coast to get to the Caribbean each winter. (continued) Show more
We have Kato Marine Island davits on our 370 and they have been faultless for nearly 10 years. We use them with an AB 3.2m RIB and a pretty heavy 9.8HP 4-stroke outboard. Yes the sugar scoop requires a bit of finessing but the solution was another excellent Kato product, their outboard crane. We lift the outboard off the dink and store it on an OB bracket next to the crane, then lift the dink up on the davits. Apart from needing a little nudge with a foot to get the RIB to clear the exhaust flap it's all pretty easy. We have occasionally hoisted the RIB and O/B up together, say just for overnight at anchor, and it's harder work but still do-able. Never had any concerns about the strength of the whole system. Using the crane though avoids having the weight of both the RIB and the O/B swinging off the davits in heavier weather. The Kato stuff (along with their radar pole) is some of the best bits of kit we ever bought for our boat.
Neil & Molly Richards
We have 361 guests and one member online