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Thank you John, yes, there is a ton of information shared in this website buy all the IP owners. We all love to help each other out. Make sure you click on the Facebook IPYOA group above in the menu and join that as well. Very active because many simply use their phones to post and ask questions.
Thank you for the information. The supply and discharge lines are close together so this procedure will be simple. My friend mentioned a diagram and I thought maybe things are more complicated than I imagined. I have been looking around the the IPYOA site and see a wealth of information.
The idea is to simply pull the water inflow hose off the water heater then pull the water outflow off and connect these together. That now means your water will bypass the water heater which saves you from filling it with antifreeze. Then once you do that, you should drain the water out of the water heater.
I used the Google search menu link under photos and found these photos.
I hope that helps.
My name is John Kin and I am new to the forum. We have an IP 45 (Elsie Mae) and I want to winterize her this week instead of paying the yard to do so. Our friends have an IP and mentioned that they were able to get a diagram off this forum that shows how to bypass the hot water heat exchanger. Does that ring a bell? If so could you direct us to this information? It would much appreciated.
That's how my 31 is plumbed and IMHO common sense dictates that is how it should have been designed originally.
If you can, could you please provide Picture and model number of the new 6-gal Seaward hot water tank you installed? Thanks
We completed our trip from Maine to Florida. The high pitch whistle continued. It didn't get any worse but it didn't go away either. I talked to the IP factory, Michigan Propeller (the prop manufacturer), and two highly recommended prop shops. All agreed the "singing prop" you described could be the cause. I had the prop pulled, refurbished and balanced. They added a camber to the leading edge of each blade to stop the harmonic whistling. We'll get back to the boat in February . Hopefully this fixed it. I'll keep you posted on the results.
We have just finished our 2019 IPYOA Calendar and the images are presented in the link below. This is a fantastic 16th edition. Thank you to all who sent in amazing photos. They look great in this black frame. You can order your own calendar here:
If you would rather make a direct donation to help support this IPYOA website project and server/software fees, then please see this page at the LEARN MORE text on the right-hand side of this site:
2019 IPYOA Calendar Pages, enjoy:
Check out this photo by Sheryl Lynn. WOW!!!!!
I had the same thought about the twisting lines in the boom. I replaced the shuttle blocks with end to end swivel blocks similar to what you have in your photo, just this year. Our reefing system now appears to work as originally designed. We had a good chance to test the system when sailing to Ensanada last month. Predicted winds were fair for the day, sailing south with full main and jib out, close hauled, 12kn wind, we were hit by by 25-30 sustained (Santa Anna Winds from off shore). We fell off a bit and reefed the main, worked perfectly?
Welcome to the St. Petersburg Power & Sailboat Show The 41st Annual St. Petersburg Power & Sailboat Show is the largest boat show on the Gulf Coast!...
CALL FOR PHOTOS, IPYOA 2019 CALENDAR. 16th edition!
IP PHOTOS that work BEST
Under Sail photo
At anchor photo
At Sea photo
Pets on an IP
I prefer the HIGH-RESOLUTION photo as an attachment.
PLEASE include your name and your boat name and MODEL and a short caption.
EXAMPLE: IP 35 ISLAND SPIRIT sailing Exumas
Send your best photo to:
I am excited to get this 16th edition, 2019 IPYOA CALENDAR built and released.
Thank you for your help.
You are all OK with the engine coolant by passed at the water heater. The coolant loop will then just return to the engine. It's all a closed loop.
Yes, you are right, do not turn on the 120 volt water heater switch as with no water in the water heater you will burn out the heating elements.
Once I have bypassed the water heater and emptied it, is there any issue running the engine? I ask this because I understand the engine coolant or heat exchanger heats the water in the water heater. I don't want to burn something out with an empty water heater. I also expect we should assure the 120 water heater breaker remains off while the water heater is empty.
All mono hull sailboats heel and IP's probably heel a little less than most. At 14-18 knots it was probably close to needing the first reef, but if it responded well to the rudder you were probably in good shape. I assume you have the standard keel like I do, and not the keel-centerboard combination.
I find that around the time the toe-rail touches the water the rudder becomes close enough to horizontal that it stops being effective. At this point you will have the wheel turned to (or nearly to) its stop but the boat just doesn't respond. Easing out the main sheet will help in the short term but the sails could start luffing violently. I put a reef in the main (and partially furl the jib) if the wind is sustained over around 18 knots.
I motor more than I sail due to the conditions on the NJ coast. We have a lot of narrow channels and turbulent inlets. The wind is generally parallel to the coast, so we end up running in one direction and beating upwind the other; I keep up the beating until my crew runs out of patience.
I hope this helps. Anything else?