The Island Packet Mail Server is run by Bruce Gregory and is a fantastic tool for connecting and communicating with the Island Packet Owners using your email tools. Please use this link below to join the IP Mail server. The yearly fee is $20 and Bruce will send you information about payment after you sign up.
Good idea, simple explore the inflow side of the end cap and see if there is a blade there, plus then you can look into the cooling tubes. NOTE: When you go to loosen the heat exchanger end cap, put the socket wrench onto the bolt, apply loosening pressure and as you do this, tap on the wrench sending shock waves into the bolt. Do this a few times keeping the pressure on the wrench in the loosening direction. This will help break the bolt free.
These photos are so helpful.
No I have definitely not lost any impeller blades, but my 485 had one previous owner so of ocurse I dont know what may or may not have happened previoulsy.
I do know for the last 4 years running at 3,000 rpm has not caused and over temp, but above that it has so, there is not really any indication it is getting any better or worse.
I am tempted, given your comments, to see if the end caps come off without too much effort and consider from there.
There are two risks in removing the heat exchanger tubes, not big risks, but risks. I have dealt with both of these.
1. The end cap bolts can strip out the threads in the holes if seized.
This will cause the bolt to pull the threads out of the aluminum heat exchanger which then will require the drilling of the hole and the insertion of a heli-coil to re-insert new threads. Heli-coils are available at car shops like NAPA to repair engine blocks when bolts strip out the theads in holes. I had toi do this on Island Spirit.
2. The actual tubes of the heat exchanger can be stuck in the housing.
This can happen and now you will need to have a block of wood and a very large hammer to beat the cooling tube bundle out of the housing. Once you budge the tube, it comes right out then, but it usually will take some hammering to move it. This can damage the tubes.
Please take a look at this photo essay and it will show the removal of the heat exchanger cooling tubes.
I would run a cleaner and not worry about the tubes.
Have you ever noticed a missing impeller blade when replacing the impeller? Are you sure you do not have one blocking water flow where the salt water inflows to the heat exchanger?
Thank you Hayden, much appreciated.
Yes, I am talking about the exchanger. I did remove the elbow after your comments on here and you were absolutely correct, it was perfect.
I cruise at 2,600 rpm or sometimes at 3,000 rpm for a short time. As you know Yanmar say the engine can and (maybe) should run at full revs occasionally which with mine is around 3,400 if the filters are perfectly clean! However at that setting after a short while the temp. warning starts. Throttling back and it stops very quickly.
As you say I am sure all is fine but with the intention of going away long term cruising I feel I want everything to start as good as it can, and my thinking is it might just be an early sign that the exchanger has some deposits reducing its efficiency. Of course I might well be wrong but if it isnt too difficult I am happy to check.
I have a Maxprop and it is possible when it last came off and I know the engineers reset the ptich it has changed slightly or was not set up correctly but I cant be sure if the "problem" has arisen after.
I think removing the exchanger coil should be straight forward, so I was tempted to do that. I have ordered a set of seals and gaskets. Alternatively I thought of running through some descaler but I am not sure if that is more effort than it is worth. One of the products suggested requires the solution to be run through the system for an hour or so (Rydlyme Marine) which is quite a work up, although they have just told me today it can be put in the strainer and run through, but will not be so effective.
All in all I am now not sure whether it is easier to remove the cartridge (when the seals turn up in two weeks, not currently in stock in the UK), inspect, descale and replace, or just run through some Rydlyme.
Any more thoughts welcome.
When you say heat exchanger, are you talking about the actual heat exchanger tubes that you pull out and clean, or are you talking about the mixing elbow (the square end) on the end of the heat exchanger that the exhaust hose connects to?
I would start with the impeller and the sea water strainer and the thru hull pick up making sure there is no restricted water flow there first. Also, we never run much over 3000 with our little 38 hp 3JH2e. It will run up to 3400, but we never run it there. If it runs fine at 2800, or 80% or wide open throttle, then that is what Yanamar wants you to run at 24/7.
I am not sure you have a problem.
I guess it would not be bad to run a descaler into the heat exchanger. I would not go pulling the heat exchanger tubes out just to look at them. I would wait to have a better reason like a broken impeller blade missing and it can be up against the heat exchanger tubes restricting water flow. Have you ever been missing a bade when changing an impeller?
I am tempted to give my heat exchanger a clean on my 100HP turbo Yanmar.
The reason is that only at the very top end of the revs I get a high temp alarm after a short while. I suspect this maybe because the exchanger is no longer functioning quite as well as it could.
The other possibilities are the sea water filter is partially blocked (checked that, all fine), the impeller is damaged, (havent checked that yet, but was replaced very recently) or the thermostat is faulty (also not yet checked) - unless anyone can think of anything else!
As I say the temp warning only comes on running the engine at full throttle (3,500 rpm) and is absolutely fine at 2,500 and up to 3,000 rpm for long periods which is the normal cruising range, and stops immediately after throttling back.
Yanmar say the engine will run fine at full throttle and indeed this should be done occasionally. As I mentioned earlier I am more worried that it might be an indication that the heat exchanger is not working as efficiently as it should and it may gradually get worse.
So, my second question is whether to remove the heat exchanger for a visual examination and clean or use one of the magic descalers - and if so which one?
The third question is if I do remove the heat exchanger what is involved as I have not done this before and thoughts on how best to clean once removed?
It is now Aug 16th, ten days before the Rock Hall Rendezvous, and we have 91 people registered, 38 yachts represented and 27 yachts docking at Spring Cove Marina. WOW, this is really exciting.
We also have a few additions to the event.
1. IP 420 CATHARPIN BLUE owners, Sam and Marilyn will talk about their Pacific Circumnavigation which started in Rock Hall, MD at Spring Cove Marina down to the Panama Canal to the South Pacific then north up and along the Alaska Panhandle and then down to Puget Sound. WOW, that is amazing. This will be the kick off event Saturday at 4-5pm.
2. We also have added an informal POT LUCK for Friday night under the tent. We know that some owners will arrive Friday and the tent will be there and set up Thursday, so we thought an informal pot luck for any and all that are there would be fun.
Also, if you are sailing into Spring Cove, then, please take a look at this post showing the charts and how to get here:
As of today, Wed Aug 16th, this is the list of yachts:
Yacht Name IP Model
Blue Sky 380
By The Bay 31
Cat Tails 38
Catharpin Blue 420
Creme Brulee 32
Crisis Averted 27
Eau de Vie 35
IP Dealer S&J
IP Dealer S&J
IP Dealer S&J
IP Dealer S&J
IP Dealer S&J
IP Dealer S&J
IP Factory Owners Hake Marine
Island Spirit 35
Jubilee II 29
Marina Owner Spring Cove
Our Lass 420
Rigel Blue Jacket 40
Rum Line 350
Sailin' Shoes 40
Sailing School Mdschool
Sans Souci Too 35
Spill The Wine 485
Spindrift V.2 38
Windswept Dreams 38
Wye's Guy 27
Ok. more later as we keep building.
Thanks a bunch, Hayden! Just got this scam letter.
Hands down, if you are in reach of Stuart Florida, then I would trust and hire Mack Sails to replace the chain plates. Hands down. If west coast Florida, then Snead Island Boatworks. Otherwise, sail up to Maine and hire Norm Pierce in Boothbay Harbor. These are the top resources at this point from my understanding and my working with these people.
Thanks so much for all this information, Hayden. Whimsy needs new chain plates so we are giving all this a very close look.
OOPS, Right you are, I missed that, I thought of west coast FLA. Yes, we used the Hinckley Yard in Stuart Florida for storage and launch, that would be a good place to truck into. We also used MACK SAILS of Stuart Florida, and they work out of a yard called....
260 NW Dixie Hwy, Stuart, FL 34994
This yard is a small work yard with a marina next to it. You could easily truck to APEX, off load there and hire Mack Sails to re-step the mast. This would be far cheaper than Hinckley.
Once launched, you could :
A: Dock right there and work on the boat
B: Move a short distance to Sunset Bay Marina into a dock or a mooring ball.
B is the best option becuase Sunset Bay is a dream and the town of Stuart fl IS A DREAM.
This area is one place Radeen and I could make home on the water. Sailing out of here is in the river or out the inlet to the ocean.
Sunset Bay Marina & Anchorage ?
Marina in Stuart, Florida
Address: 615 SW Anchorage Way, Stuart, FL 34994
Hours: Open today · 7AM–6PM
Phone: (772) 283-9225
So, that is my option. Truck to Mack Sails working yard, APEX.
Launch and move over to Sunset Bay.
Hayden, I think Tom meant some place on the east coast. Didn't you have Island Spirit some place near Stuart? Isn't there a Hinckley yard over there?
With the rebuilding of the Rock Hall Island Packet Yachts Rendezvous, I thought it would be good to document where Spring Cove Marina is located and how you arrive by boat or by car. To see the charts, you can use this online nautical chart viewer and look at chart # 12272
Chester River; Kent Island Narrows, Rock Hall Harbor and Swan Creek
Spring Cove Marina is located just north of Rock Hall Maryland on the Eastern Shore of the Chesapeake Bay. The marina is the last marina in Swan Creek.
Here is an overview: The arrow points to Spring Cove Marina
One of the other lowers broke and was found topside. The one you refer to was found during the chain plate replacement. Bottom line. If the IP is 1997 or older, then one should think about replacing the chain plates.
Norm did not post or share his presentation and no one recorded it. I am sorry we do not have that.
Snead Island Boat Works Inc
5225 Snead Island Rd, Palmetto, FL 34221
Phone: (941) 722-4450
We are planning on Shipping Dragon's Toy, our IP37 back to the East Coast to cruise the Bahamas for a few years. We are looking for a yard to off load the boat from the truck and reinstall the mast and also a secure place to leave the boat during the hurricane season.
Any information or suggestions would be appreciated.
sv Dragon's Toy
We have 517 guests and 2 members online