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Yes, that sounds pretty frustrating, especially the part about the 2nd person over the stern, lol. What is one to do. I tried the pump for a while and then pause, then continue. I’ll give the paper towel trick a try. That should prevent most of the spillage.
Thanks for the kind words and for showing me these few tricks!
Now my problem is where to put it.
Any ideas? I guess just hang it from the overhead, cause the aft bulkhead is all Watermaker panel.
Maybe on the Starboard side where I have the fuel filters?
Since you have the IP 38, and older model IP, most of these older IPs did not come with the CUBE or square exhaust mixing elbow. That cube is about $800 and it will never clog up like the old U shaped ones. So, at some point I am guessing that the old mixing elbow was replaced with this newer cube style and since the old U shape one did not have a vented loop, they simply connected it up without one. That is my guess.
All the newer engines will have vented loops on every water line, even sump pumps and shower sump pumps.
What I thought. I guess I’ll order a vented loop and some hose tomorrow and get it done, funny how it’s gone this long with no issues.
So you guys sure it came with one from the factory and was removed for some reason? That seems odd.
Mastery told me one wasn’t installed in this application, but I didn’t get a good feeling he knew what he was talking about either.
No bother, YES, 1 inch hose.
Hate to bother again, but what size are the hoses, 1 inch?
Thanks, I guess there is enough room, just doesn’t look like it.
I guess I need to remove the exhaust elbow and inspect for build up anyway.
Here's mine. 4JH2E engine. The two hoses go right past each other, one going straight aft, one going forward then bending around. Vacuum break on the aft bulkhead.
I don’t see how you can remove the short hose and stuff two in there? Anyone done it with a 4JHE with this exhaust elbow?
Will you share a picture if you have?
OK, I think the deal is that I’m on an IPad and you can’t use quick reply and get the attachment button.
I hear you about this all being tight. The newer square mixing elbows are great. I am sure you can work in a vented loop.
To add a picture simply use the ATTACHMENT button below this posting window when writing a post. Then select your image file. Then click INSERT and your picture will be added with script. When you save the post the picture is there....
Issue I have is clearance between exhaust manifold and exhaust elbow.I have the square bronze or cupro nickel exhaust elbow and there isn’t room, plus both sides have nipples, can’t plumb in elbows.
How do you post a picture here?
The engine sea water cooling vented loops is placed into the sea water line coming off the back of the engine heat exchanger then to the vented loop fitting then back into the exhaust mixing elbow. You can see my photo essay on this when I replace one.
Our IP38, hull # 41 has no vacuum breaker, and from appearance did not come from the factory with one.
We have never had an issue with not having one.
Were they fitted from the factory with a vented loop? I suspect not, but why isn’t one required?
If one were to be fitted, I’d assume it should go between the raw water pump and heat exchanger?
Congrats on helping out with IP 29 CRYSTAL BLUE, we all have been following here and find it sad that she washed up onto the rocks. I am sure you can rebuild her. You have a big fiberglass job ahead of you.
The Number one person you need to be in contact with is Bill Bolin who worked at the Island Packet Yachts factory for nearly 30 years. He is now incharge of helping the fleet with access to specs and drawings and support.
To gain access to Bill, you need to join the Island Packet Ancestry website here:
Once a member there, then you can get direct support from Bill.
Please do share postings and photos with us all as you make these repairs. You can share in here or in our Facebook group. All is linked up in the menu at the top.
Thanks again and best of luck with the repairs. Keep us posted. We love to help.
Welcome to the group, you will LOVE LOVE LOVE the IP 35. As for the fuel vent line, you do not need to replace it. Here is what I have learned sonce 2001 with the IP 35.
#1. Remove the screen that is installed in the fuel vent line on the stern fitting. This can be done with a simple ice pick or small screwdriver. It is held in with a ring spring clip. This screen clogs up and prevents the line from venting.
#2. This vent hose may then still have a low point under the cabin floor and or it may be slightly pinched when the factory built these 35s, they pinched the fuel vent line on every 179 they built....DUH....very frustrating. So....so it is
#3. That means when you fill the fuel tank, it will back up at the fill nozzle which is why you think you have a blocked vent line. Well, the solution to this is to wrap a thick paper towel rolled up around the fule nozzle when filling. Insert the fuel hose all the way, then wrap a folded paper towel round the top at the deck. Now seal this gap with your hand holding the paper towel. NOT, you can push fuel into the tank and it will back up but the nozzle will shut off.
#4. With #3 in use, now you will find that the fuel vent line will hiss and spit fuel that is trapped in the low point of the fuel vent hose. So, one person needs to reach over the port tern corner and with a paper towel, cover the vent, and catch the spits. Meanwhile, you are controlling the fuel flow rate. If you slow down the fuel will flow in without spitting out the vent. Another trick is to run the pump full tilt for 30 seconds, then stop, allow the tank to vent, 10-15 sec, the run the pump full tilt again. Eventually you will figure out the pace and or the flow rate your IP 35 will take.
What I ahve found is, that fuel pumps do not like to run slowly and when you do that, it runs a lot of air into the fuel and it foams up. This also clogs the vent. When I get to a fuel hose that runs like a water garden hose at that rate, it is ZERO problems, it works great.
So, yes, the vent is pinched a bit, and yes take out the ven screen and then use these tricks to fuel an IP 35.
Welcome to the fleet, you have a GREAT 35, I know it well.
I have a few of thoughts:
1. It is a new dock so you don't know what you have, I would borrow another 50 AMP cable and see if you get the same results.
2. I would disconnect and reconnect the cables to the boat, the splitter, and the breaker, all of them. I think you implied that there were two 30 amps at the boat - combined to a 50 at the dock? Regardless disconnect all inspect for cleanliness and burns and then reconnect.
3. With the 50 Amp borrowed cord for step one connect to another dock outlet as far as you can get from the one you are on.
4. If none of that fixes it, Then I would work through the promariner trouble shooting portion of their manual j109.org/docs/ProSafe-One-Manual.pdf , Seems like it is pretty detailed. My limited experience with galvanic isolators is that a small amount of corrosion on their connections can cause problems. They seem to be a pile of Zener diodes with very low thresholds and can't distinguish corrosion from open connections.
Remember - "free advice is worth the price" , At any rate, Good Luck
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