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Yes, I would expect so, I think it was a 10 year guarantee.
In any event, I suspect the change of owner might negate any guarantee anyway.
This is about the faucet on my IP485, but I think the same faucet is commonly used.
I suffered from poor flow for sometime.
I eventually removed the box beneath the sink in the engine room to reveal the plumbing. Removing the box was straight forward - just lots of screws. The whole box can be removed from the engine room.
I expected to find a diverter valve beneath, between the faucet and the sprayer. There was none. The plumbing is very simple. There is one pipe to the cold water pump. The faucet has three small bore metal pipes that screw into its base. These pipes are in turn connected to the plastic hoses supplying hot and cold, and direct to the sprayer.
I can well imagine that because the pipes are of the typical small bore copper commonly used these could become restricted where the wide bore plastic connects to the small bore pipes. I had no such restriction.
I expected to find my problem beneath the box, but no such luck.
In desperation I removed the tap cartridges, (which I had done before) and these were also fine.
Finally I rmoved the swan pipe from the middle of the faucet and noticed there is a small what appears to be sprung loaded valve in the middle of the pipe of the tap itself, not the swan pipe. It is easy to see if you look directly down into the centre tube which the swan pipe screws onto. In my case the sprung valve barely lifted. Lots of jiggling with a screw driver and thin nosed plyers worked the valve free and full flow was instantly and impressivley restored. Through time I guess the valve had just silted up probably with a bit of lime scale as well.
I finished off the job with some descaler poored in the pipe and left to sit, but it barely fizzed and didnt have any obvious effect other than to bring the valve back to a shiny colour.
Someone is going to be the next lucky owner of one of the best IP 380s on the MLS. This boat is SPOTLESS, and ready to sail to the Bahamas or to liveaboard.
At $162,800, this is the BEST DEAL on Yacht World for a yacht in this condition.
See the listing details and the 150 Photos I posted here:
Please contact me: Hayden Cochran to talk about see this yacht or simply reply this forum post.
Hayden, trying to help a friend.
I'm about to buy a 2006 IP 370 and the survey has shown up some patches of blisters on one side (port). I'm guessing that being 12 years old the warranty will no longer apply.
Is there a place where Island Packet circumnavigators are enshrined? If not a list should certainly be compiled!
I have spent lots of time working on this as I replaced my shifter cables with new Teleflx cables and I replaced the old style shifter with a new single lever one.
What I learned from this regarding not shiting into a gear, fed or rev, is that you need to look very closely at your transmission lever and the shifter cable mount and clamp hold down. To study this, first, remove the shifter cable from the shifter lever on the transmission. Now, move the shifter lever into fwd, neutral rev, just move it back and forth. Now stop it in neutral, making sure your this trans shifter lever is is neutral. Next, with the cable end removed, move your shifter at the helm into fwd, neutral, rev and look at the movement of the cable end, obviously this takes 2 people. Now, position the helm shifter in the neutral position. Look at the cable clamp and the cable feed and it should be 90 degree to the transmission lever. This cable mount on the transmission we had to remake so that we could position the cable 90 degrees to the lever in neutral. If this is off then the cable will push more in one direction over the other. This study of the movement of the transmission lever related to the cable being 90 degrees may fix your problem.
That is where I would start.
I have a IP320 and recently have had problems shifting into forward. No problems with reverse. Have adjusted the cable as far forward as possible, and when moving the lever and inspecting the transmission end no problem seems to be visible. When lever pushed into forward and click audible, forward motion occurs occasionally after about 4-5 secs. If the lever is pushed forward rapidly the engine sometimes does not go into forward. Reverse is not a problem. I removed the compass and inspected the inner aspect of the lever with the rods and upper aspect of the cable visible and cannot see any obvious problem.
Any suggestions? I strongly suspect the cable is the issue. How would I replace the cable? How do I lubricate the cable.
If you are looking for the BEST Island Packet 380 on the market, THIS IS YOUR BOAT. STOP LOOKING, you really need to seriously consider this one. She will not last long at this new Boat Show lowered price!
380 PLAN SEA $162,900
You will NOT find a cleaner, more cared for 380 on the market.
To read the listing details of this beautiful IP 380, please click here:
It is best to post your question into this FORUM and ask it straight up. Many IP owners may be able to help you.
Reaching out to IP27 sailors, need advice and have a few questions
If you look at the schematics for the UP 29 I believe it shows the head water supply is tues in to the raw water intake for the engine.
Hopefully it's not hooked directly to the fresh water tank! Any kind of backwash would contaminate your fresh water, yuck! A lot of IP's have the head intake "T"ed off the engine intake seacock. Try closing that and see if you still get water to the head.
I am trying to replace the head and hoses on an IP 29. I cannot seem to find the seacock that controls the intake. If it is the seacock I believe (right outside the head), than it appears not to be working. I shut it off but the water keeps coming out of the small hose I disconnected from the manual head pump. Is it possible that it’s hooked into the fresh water tank? I can’t see where.
We are original owners of 370-24 also with the 4JH3. First, Google "singing prop" and read some other owners experience and the science behind the problem. Then my story. It may or may not of course apply to your boat.
For the first 4-5 years of ownership every Spring after our haulout and with a completely clean prop we had a high pitched "singing" between 1300-2200 rpm. Within a few weeks it would go away and only return in late summer after the diver had cleaned the prop and wiped the bottom. Several mechanics took short rides and heard the sound - checked alignment, motor mounts, but no change.
I then by chance the next Spring mentioned this to the owner of the marina where I haulout and he said I think you have a "singing prop". We pulled the prop and I took it to the Norfolk prop shop and the owner there said I can cure this by a slight camber on the trailing edge and actually gave me a copy of one of the scientific papers you will find online. Indeed he did - problem gone.
The other comment about the raw water vented loop is also interesting. It reminded me that Island Packet issued a factory service bulletin for our 370s to fix a problem in that the hose from the raw water vented loop to the bilge as installed at the factory did not continuously run downhill, allowing water to block air flow. They sent me a new hose and a few other parts and the new way to route the hose that I installed myself. If you are not the original owner you might check to see if that was done on your boat.
Enjoy your ICW trip. Done it twice and some wonderful places to stop and enjoy along the way.
IP 370-24 Two for the Roads